Tim James – Outdoors Thailand

One of my favorite parks in Bangkok which is definitely worth a visit for a break from the city, to see what Thai-style gardens and nature are all about, or simply to give the kids a runaround. Lumpini Park, the first park in Thailand was created in the 1920s and is a well-kept 142-acre park in downtown Bangkok. 10-15k locals, families, and tourists alike visit each day, mainly to: run/walk the 2.5km of track, use children’s play areas, and visit multiple lakes and gardens hiding an abundance of wildlife. Please be aware, that since the Covid-19 pandemic began you are supposed to wear a face mask in all public places, including, as ridiculous as it sounds, public parks. There are officers at the entrances who will ask you to wear one. It is best just to go along with this, no one monitors mask-wearing once in the park, hint hint. Bear in mind that there is no smoking, dogs are not allowed and it is best not to show too much public affection, i.e. hugging and kissing as this may offend the locals. Other than that you are good to go! Opening hours are 4.30 am until 9 pm at night, and guards will chase you out of the park if you try to sleep there! How to get there Any taxi, tuk-tuk or motorbike rider will know Lumpini Park but it is probably easiest to take a BTS or MRT to MRT Silom, or BTS Sala Daeng. In those stations you will find a large map either on a wall or on stilts on the main station concourse area which will show you the way to go, it is only a short walk from either station. You could go by public bus for a real Thai experience. These bus numbers will get you there: Witthayu road buses 13, 17, 62, 76 and 106, the Sarasin Road buses 13, 76 and 106, Rama IV road buses 4, 14, 47, 67, 74, 76, 106, 109, 115 and Por Opr 7, and the Ratchadamri road buses 14, 15, 74, 77, 119, Por Opr 4, and Por Opr 5. Personally, I would take a taxi though, buses are fun once but not really practical for most tourists, or families. Do you need to book in advance to visit Lumpini Park? You do not need to make any bookings to visit Lumpini Park. In fact, I would encourage you not to! Exploring the park for yourself at your own pace is far more interesting than being taken around in a tour group in my opinion. Strangely, I noticed that when I googled this question Tripadvisor was implying you needed to book a tour, this is not the case and I think most people would prefer to do this independently, not least because it is free and easy to get to. What’s the best way to see Lumpini Park? The best way to look around Lumpini Park is to simply take a leisurely stroll around the park. It is often very sunny and hot though, so do make sure you take a drink bottle, sun cream, and hat. Bicycles are allowed but there aren’t any to hire easily nearby so walking is your best shot at it. There are lots of runners in the evening after nearby office blocks close for the day and workers pour out into the park for a bit of relief from office life. What to do in Lumpini Park? Depending on your time restraints, your tolerance of the heat, and time of day, you can enjoy the following activities at Lumpini Park, Thailand: 1. Stroll around By far my favorite activity, you don’t need to plan a route, I suggest simply walking the full perimeter of the park if it is your first time. This will take an hour or so on flat tarmaced walkways. Use Google maps to track your progress, or to take any shortcuts. If you can’t quite manage an entire lap then you can also just leave the park at one of the many exits and grab a taxi back home, or to your hotel. Personally, I enjoy finding a viewpoint where you can see the incredible contrast of the lakes and plants in the foreground and the towering concrete jungle behind it all set against a deep blue sky. The evening is a favorite time of mine to stroll around Lumpini. Bats come out to play, the weather isn’t so hot and you get to enjoy some glorious sunsets too. 2. Use the children’s play area There is a large children’s play area containing at least two sets of sturdy swings, and three separate climbing frames with slides attached to them. My two boys thoroughly enjoy running around and exploring these as well as climbing on the large boulders that are not far away from the play area also. Of course, there are plenty of benches nearby for us older folks to rest whilst the kids rush around. 3. Bike around Some people bring bikes to the park and have a good cycle around. The park is big enough to accommodate cyclists and walkers. However, I have not seen a cycle hire shop in the park, like the one at Suan Rot Fai Park. So, if you are keen to cycle then head to Suan Rot Fai Park. 4. Spot the famous Thailand monitor lizards (Lumpini Park Lizards) These lizards take many a visitor by surprise by their sheer size. You will almost definitely see monitor lizards in a variety of sizes from a foot long right up to 7 feet long! They really do look like quite a sight as they amble around the fringes of the lakes searching for prey, typically fish and birds. Don’t worry though, monitor lizards are not dangerous and they will generally turn tail and run if you march towards them. The only time I have felt threatened in twenty years of visiting Thai parks is when three larger lizards emerged from a lake fighting over a dead fish. They seemed oblivious to us but did come much closer than I would have liked seeing as though they were clawing at each other. Obviously, we just backed off and left them to it but spotting monitoring lizards does give walking around the parks a nice tropical, and even edgy feel at times. I have never known anyone to be bit by them or felt threatened by them. The Thai National Parks website has plenty more info on the lizards of Thailand. 5. Run around This is best reserved for early morning or evening times. There is a small changing facility with lockers for valuable should you need a couple of minutes walk to the left as you enter from the Silom road end of the park. There are plenty of runners in the evenings but it never really feels overly crowded and it is a great way to stay fit on your trave 6. Have a picnic There are usually ladies wandering around who will hire you out a picnic/square mat which you can fold out and use as a picnic mat. The going rate seems to be 20 baht although don’t be surprised if you are asked for more. Be kind though, a little extra can go a long way for some people! I suggest bringing your own food, or at least picking something up from a nearby shop before you get into the park prepare as there is not much food available. There is a drinks stall on the way in but no food. 7. Sit on a bench and relax There are some nice shady spots all around the park with benches to sit on. The sloping banks of the lake make a nice spot to sit on the grass too just be careful of fire ants. They can be anywhere in the grass and their bites do sting. 8. Join an exercise class In the evenings there are usually a couple of aerobic/step classes taking place outdoors in full public view that anyone can join in and enjoy. It is quite a scene to see a couple of hundred people all dancing in time to load music. Thai people seem very open and secure in themselves and think nothing of exercising in public regardless of how athletic they do or don’t look, ot how in time with the music they are, or aren’t! Quite a spectacle indeed. 9. Feed the fish Lookout at the entrance to the park for fish food. There is normally a vendor selling bags of bread pieces, small round granules of fish food, or very brightly colored popcorn type fish food. All of the lakes have a plethora of fish in them and my kids particularly enjoy watching the fish competing to eat the handfuls they throw-in. And if you have kids that like feeding animals then consider taking a trip to Dubua Cafe which is a great low-cost alternative for younger kids. 10. Go on a pedal boat It is quite a serene experience and nice for the kids if you make the effort to take a pedal boat out on the lakes. You can quietly drift along and get close up with swimming monitor lizards, fish, and enjoy a different perspective on the park. The last time I did this I paid 20 baht for 20 minutes though this was provide so it could be more but either way it is a nice option. 11. Watch or do Tai Chi It seems to be somewhat of a tradition for small groups of mainly elderly people to gather at certain locations and times of the day to practice Tai Chi together. These gatherings don’t seem to be organised as such and some people were just doing it whilst following a youtube channel. The last time I went there was an old lady wielding a rather ferocious-looking sword which scared my sons somewhat. Not quite my cup of tea but if you want to give it a go then why not. 12. Concerts If you get lucky you might just stumble across a concert in process. These used to take place on a Sunday afternoon pre-pandemic. There is a specific stage and outdoor area allocated for the audience and it is a lovely way to spend an afternoon. The Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra used to be the main drawcard but they have since moved their offering to Chulalongkorn University Centenary Park. 13. Lift weights Inside most public parks in Thailand, you will find multiple areas where there is a range of free weights, benches, and a few old machines available for the public to use. I used to go to one of these regularly and the Thai people seemed to enjoy the novelty of a foreigner working out with them and were very accommodating. In fact, I would even recommend going for a workout in one of these areas just to experience the welcoming nature of Thai people. Simply wander into the weight lifting area, smile at everyone, and get on with your workout, just be careful with some of the equipment. It can be quite dated so I wouldn't go crazy with the heavyweights in case something breaks. 14. A combination of all of the above So long as you have got the time and don’t mind the heat then you will almost inevitably be able to pick and choose from the above list Hopefully, I have given you a solid rundown of what you can do and see at Lumpini Park. It really is a lovely oasis for city dwellers and visitors to enjoy and offers a fine insight into Thai nature and wildlife without leaving Bangkok. If you liked this rundown on Lumpini Park then you might also be interested in my take on Suan Luang Park, another great park to visit.